When I chose to go to Jordan, I wanted to see Petra, The Rose City, and I wanted to float in the Dead Sea. It was that simple. I knew nothing about Jordan really, except that is had a bad reputation, as it is surrounded by a lot of turmoil at the moment. Tourism in Jordan brings in less than 50% of the tourists it used to bring in the early 2000s. This is a sad reality, especially for a country with very little natural resources or sources of income apart from tourism. So this post will just be a shameless plug for Jordan, or as the locals all say: "Welcome to Jordan."
I started in Amman, honestly there isn't a whole lot going on in Amman, but the airport is decent, way better than many Canadian airports and the people were nice. I enjoyed two delicious meals, one at Hashem, the best and oldest Felafel shop in Jordan (the King even eats there) and Don Quichotte (classic Jordanian name, I know) where we had the famous dish, Mansaf, which was rice with tumeric and almonds, poached lamb and a warm yogurt sauce, accompanied by a large variety of salads and dips. Salads, pitas and dips are customary at every meal, even breakfast.
Next, we headed to Aqaba, where I was able to take a boat out on the Red Sea and experience snorkeling in 2 different locations. The ship staff were amazing, blasting Arabic music and dancing around the top deck. They guided us to great snorkeling areas and served lunch aboard Shark Bay 2. It was a wonderful experience. From the shores of Aqaba, you can see Egypt, Israel and Saudi Arabia, which really put into perspective how close these tumultuous neighbors really are. Aqaba is also a "free zone" which means that alcohol is openly available, instead of discreetly hidden in a back shop somewhere. I had some delicious seafood for supper there.
During our supper, a "Saudi Prince" bought us a bottle of wine and came over to "set the record straight". He wanted us to know that the media misrepesents his country and his people on a regular basis. He was a fighter pilot for the Saudi Arabian military and made very little sense, but he was correct in saying that the media sensationalizes the extremists. This especially rang true for Jordanians and particularly the Bedouins, as they were some of the most welcoming, kind and soft spoken people I have met in my travels. There are of course many cultural beliefs that do not fit my ideals, but that is their choice.
After Aqaba, we headed into Wadi Rum, the desert, where I met a Sheikh and witnessed the most serene and breathtaking sunset I have ever seen. There were only 6 of us up on the ridge, and no one else for miles as the sun sunk low into the horizon. I could relive that moment a thousand times over really. After sunset, we were served a meal that was prepared underground on a cooking rack beneath the sand, it was delicious! The following morning, we headed back on camels, but they were far less comfortable than the camels of the Sahara. Upon arrival, we headed into Petra/Wadi Musa.
In Petra, we were invited to a divorced Bedouin woman's home, where she prepared and amazing upside down dish for us. The flavors were unlike anything I have had before. I thoroughly enjoyed talking with her and interacting with her niece and nephew who were around the house. They took us out back and picked us fresh figs and pomegranates from their trees for us to sample. The following day, I went to Petra. From the road overlooking Petra, you can't tell the ancient city is there (which is why it "disappeared for nearly 1000 years). You must go through a winding canyon (the Siq), and eventually you come out to the Treasury. The first glimpse of the Treasury is a moment I won't soon forget. It was glowing in the morning sun, showing off the pink colors of the rocks, highlighting the amazing building carved into the rock face. Pictures and words could never do that day justice. The heat, the 13 kms we hiked to see everything, the Monastary in the mountain tops, the valleys, the layers upon layers of colors in the sedimentary rocks. The tan men with charcoal eye liner, reminiscent of Jack Sparrow. The impossibility of what was built there, hidden among a canyon. Petra is a must-see for everyone.
Finally, we visited Jarash, a city full of Roman ruins and then we ended at the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea was salty and floaty and an experience you have to feel to believe. We caked ourselves in Dead Sea mud, let it dry and then washed it off in the minerals of the lake. We then spent the rest of the day relaxing by the pool. It was a wonderful end to my time in Jordan. For anyone who is hesitant to visit this country, rich in history and culture, it was the safest I have felt in many of my travels. I highly recommend a visit.
And of course, my Bedouin name, given to me by our fabulous guide Ahmed
is Sabha.
I started in Amman, honestly there isn't a whole lot going on in Amman, but the airport is decent, way better than many Canadian airports and the people were nice. I enjoyed two delicious meals, one at Hashem, the best and oldest Felafel shop in Jordan (the King even eats there) and Don Quichotte (classic Jordanian name, I know) where we had the famous dish, Mansaf, which was rice with tumeric and almonds, poached lamb and a warm yogurt sauce, accompanied by a large variety of salads and dips. Salads, pitas and dips are customary at every meal, even breakfast.
Next, we headed to Aqaba, where I was able to take a boat out on the Red Sea and experience snorkeling in 2 different locations. The ship staff were amazing, blasting Arabic music and dancing around the top deck. They guided us to great snorkeling areas and served lunch aboard Shark Bay 2. It was a wonderful experience. From the shores of Aqaba, you can see Egypt, Israel and Saudi Arabia, which really put into perspective how close these tumultuous neighbors really are. Aqaba is also a "free zone" which means that alcohol is openly available, instead of discreetly hidden in a back shop somewhere. I had some delicious seafood for supper there.
During our supper, a "Saudi Prince" bought us a bottle of wine and came over to "set the record straight". He wanted us to know that the media misrepesents his country and his people on a regular basis. He was a fighter pilot for the Saudi Arabian military and made very little sense, but he was correct in saying that the media sensationalizes the extremists. This especially rang true for Jordanians and particularly the Bedouins, as they were some of the most welcoming, kind and soft spoken people I have met in my travels. There are of course many cultural beliefs that do not fit my ideals, but that is their choice.
After Aqaba, we headed into Wadi Rum, the desert, where I met a Sheikh and witnessed the most serene and breathtaking sunset I have ever seen. There were only 6 of us up on the ridge, and no one else for miles as the sun sunk low into the horizon. I could relive that moment a thousand times over really. After sunset, we were served a meal that was prepared underground on a cooking rack beneath the sand, it was delicious! The following morning, we headed back on camels, but they were far less comfortable than the camels of the Sahara. Upon arrival, we headed into Petra/Wadi Musa.
In Petra, we were invited to a divorced Bedouin woman's home, where she prepared and amazing upside down dish for us. The flavors were unlike anything I have had before. I thoroughly enjoyed talking with her and interacting with her niece and nephew who were around the house. They took us out back and picked us fresh figs and pomegranates from their trees for us to sample. The following day, I went to Petra. From the road overlooking Petra, you can't tell the ancient city is there (which is why it "disappeared for nearly 1000 years). You must go through a winding canyon (the Siq), and eventually you come out to the Treasury. The first glimpse of the Treasury is a moment I won't soon forget. It was glowing in the morning sun, showing off the pink colors of the rocks, highlighting the amazing building carved into the rock face. Pictures and words could never do that day justice. The heat, the 13 kms we hiked to see everything, the Monastary in the mountain tops, the valleys, the layers upon layers of colors in the sedimentary rocks. The tan men with charcoal eye liner, reminiscent of Jack Sparrow. The impossibility of what was built there, hidden among a canyon. Petra is a must-see for everyone.
Finally, we visited Jarash, a city full of Roman ruins and then we ended at the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea was salty and floaty and an experience you have to feel to believe. We caked ourselves in Dead Sea mud, let it dry and then washed it off in the minerals of the lake. We then spent the rest of the day relaxing by the pool. It was a wonderful end to my time in Jordan. For anyone who is hesitant to visit this country, rich in history and culture, it was the safest I have felt in many of my travels. I highly recommend a visit.
And of course, my Bedouin name, given to me by our fabulous guide Ahmed
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